Do You Install Replacement Windows From The Inside Or Outside

When Maddy Krauss and her husband, Paul Friedberg, first laid eyes on their 1897 Shingle-manner home, they fell in honey with its handcrafted plow-of-the-century structure, broad front porch, and massive entry-hall staircase. They were also delighted to find that many of the original architectural details were still intact, including forest paneling, exquisite carvings, stained-glass windows, and an ornate bandage-statuary fireplace.

The windows were another story. The originals had been swapped out a decade earlier for low-quality sash kits that were drafty, ugly, and completely inappropriate for the graceful Victorian-era dwelling house, This Old Firm TV's fall 2007 project in Newton, Massachusetts. The solution: Phone call in TOH general contractor Tom Silva and his crew to install energy-efficient replacements.

Considering the existing window frames were sound and square, Tom could utilise insert replacement units—in this case, Andersen'south Woodwright Insert Replacement Windows, vinyl-clad woods units fitted with energy-saving, low-east insulated glass. These fully assembled, gear up-to-install windows skid right into the existing openings.

When the job was done, the house had beautiful new double-hungs that looked correct, worked smoothly, and gave Maddy and Paul one more thing to love about their erstwhile house. Here's a look at how Tom made the switch, with tips for choosing and installing replacement windows.

How to Install Replacement Windows

1. Window Replacement Parts

Types of Replacement Windows

Different full-frame windows, which are designed for new construction, replacement windows are made to fit into existing window openings. They're bachelor in dozens of standard sizes, from as narrow as eleven ½ inches to as wide as 68 inches, and come in woods, vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad wood, and aluminum-clad wood.

In that location are three basic types of replacement windows: sash kits, insert replacements, and total-frame units. Sash-replacement kits—what Tom institute on the Newton house—give an old window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are fastened to the side jambs of the window opening, then the sash are slipped in between.

For these to work, the existing window frame must be level and foursquare. An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a ready-to-install secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is and so fastened to the erstwhile side jambs. Because y'all're adding new jambs and liners, the glass surface area will be slightly smaller than it was before.

Full-frame replacement windows are similar to inserts, except that they accept a complete frame that includes caput jamb, side jambs, and sill. These are the only pick when the old window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. To install these, yous must strip the window opening down to its rough framing, inside and out.

two. Measuring for Replacements

The most important step in the window-replacement process happens long before installation day. It's when you measure the dimensions of the existing window frame to make sure you order a replacement unit that's the right size. Hither's how to exercise it.

Start by measuring the inside width of the old window frame, jamb to jamb, in three places: across the elevation, middle, and bottom. Write down the smallest of the 3 measurements.
Adjacent, measure the frame'due south top from the meridian of the sill to the underside of the head jamb in three places: at the left jamb, in the middle, and at the right. Once more, tape the smallest measurement.
Bank check the squareness of the frame past measuring the diagonals from corner to corner. The two dimensions should be the same. If the frame is out of square by i/4 inch or so, don't worry; the replacement tin can be shimmed to fit. Annihilation more than may require adjustments to the frame. If the frame is so out of whack that a square replacement wouldn't expect right, y'all'll demand a full-frame replacement.
Finally, utilize an bending-measuring tool to determine the slope of the sill; some replacements come with a choice of sill angles.

3. Have Out the Sash

The kickoff step is to remove the sometime sash from the window frame. In near cases, you lot'll need to pry off or unscrew the interior wooden stops to remove the lower sash. (If you're planning to reinstall the stops, exercise this job advisedly; they break easily.)
Adjacent, have out the parting beads to free the upper sash. If your windows, like these, were previously fitted with sash-replacement kits, there won't be whatsoever beads. Simply printing in on the jamb liners and pull the top of the sash forrard.
Then pivot ane side of the sash upwards to free it from the jamb liners.

4. Pry Off The Jamb Liners

Man Prying Off Jamb Liners For Window Replacement

If the window frame was fitted with vinyl or aluminum jamb liners, use a flat bar to pry them free. In the case of an original window, remove any remaining wooden stops from the window frame.
Exit the interior and exterior casings intact.

5. Prep the Frame

Man Using Flat Bar To Pry Off Jamb Liners

Scrape off all loose and blistered pigment and patch whatsoever holes or cracks with an exterior-class wood putty, such as the ones from Elmer's or Minwax.
And so sand the jambs smooth, and prime and paint the surfaces.

6. Remove the Old Sash Weights

If the original sash weights are still in identify, take this opportunity to remove them from their pockets and insulate behind the window frame.
Unscrew the access panel on each side jamb and pull out the weights.

seven. Prep For Insulation

Man Uses Drill To Prep For Window Replacement Insulation

Tom likes polyurethane cream, because it's more effective at blocking air than fiberglass insulation.

Make sure to use only low-pressure, minimally expanding foam intended for windows and doors; anything else will bow the frames and keep the sash from working.
First, pull out any existing fiberglass in the weight pockets.
So bore 3/viii-inch-bore holes, one near each finish and one in the eye, downwardly through the sill and up through the head jamb.

8. Spray in the Foam

Man Sprays Foam Into Drilled Holes For Window Replacement Preparation

Shoot the expanding foam into the holes until it begins to ooze out. (Tom is using a commercial system, but you can do the same job with foam from a can, like Dow'due south Neat Stuff.)
Also spray foam into the sash-weight pockets in the side jambs. Allow the backlog to harden for at least half dozen hours, then intermission or cut it off affluent before replacing the sash-weight pocket panels.

9. Caulk the Opening

Man Caulks Along Windowsill For Window Replacement

In preparation for installing the window, apply an elastomeric caulk to the exposed inner face of the outside casings or to the bullheaded stops on the pinnacle and sides of the frame. Too employ two continuous beads of caulk along the windowsill.

10. Install the Window

Working from within the room, set the bottom of the insert replacement onto the sill, and so tip information technology up into the opening. Press the window tight against the exterior casings or bullheaded stops.

11. Spike Information technology Loosely

Hold the window in place with one 2-inch spiral driven loosely through the upper side jamb and into the framing. The screw should be in just far plenty to allow the window to operate.
Close and lock the sash.

12. Shim as Necessary

Adjust the unit past inserting shims under the sill and behind the side jambs until it is centered in the space and opens, closes, and locks smoothly.
Measure the window diagonally from corner to corner; the measurements should be the same. When the window is foursquare, screw it in place through the predrilled holes.
To avoid bowing the frame, slip a shim behind the jamb at each screw, then screw through the shim.
Trim the shims flush with a utility knife.

13. Caulk, Prime and Pigment

Man Stands In Front Of Window Replacement To Find Gaps

From the exterior, measure the gaps between the window frame and the casing. Fill up gaps less than 1/iv inch wide with elastomeric caulk. Annihilation wider must first be stuffed with foam-safe backer rod.
On the inside, fill whatsoever gaps effectually the window with minimally expanding cream.
End upwardly by reinstalling the stops or adding new ones.
Then prime and pigment, or stain the interior of the window sash and frame.

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